The regular surfers seen almost every morning wonder if each of them think " These guys ever work???"
It doesn't matter much anyway because they are here to enjoy surfing. One of my surfie mate, Bill is having one year off work. He is in early fifty's( but truly he does look like 40years old or younger).
He says he wants to spend more time for what he wants to do while his physical activity is still in under control. People think- work , save money and retire, then it is time to have holidays. I don't oppose to that idea but it is not fun if your body can't follow you. There ,your wave is coming to you, go and grab that wave. Today's surf? yeah It was S swell, strong W wind, was very small but I had fun taking few right hander at Tama.
ほとんど毎朝いる常連のサーファー達はお互いに”こいつら働くことがあるのか?”と思っていることだろう。でもそんなことはどうでも良い,みんなサーフィンを楽しみにきているのだから。わたしのサーフィー仲間のビルは1年間休職中だ。 50代前半(だが40かそれより若くみえる)彼が言う、身体の動きが活発でコントロールできる間に自分がやりたいことに時間を費やしたいのだ、と。人々は、働く、貯金するそして退職してから休暇をとる時が来たと思うのが普通だ。それに反対はしない。でも体が自分のしたいようについてこないならばおもしろくない。君への波がやってくるぞ、こぎだしてつかみとれ。今日の波?南のうねり、強い西風、小波だった。タマでライトハンダーに何本かのったぞ。
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