Surf was good all day. After high tide, the condition got eased a bit. Pics were taken at 10-11am, and I highly respect locals, specially " Sir Paul ". He was out there and got a few. I am sure this commitment would make him all day high!
波は一日中良かった。満潮後、少し波が落ち着いた。これらの写真は１０−１１時頃にとったもので、ローカル達への点.を高くつけるが，中でも特別なのは，”ポールさまさま”。パドルアウトして，何本か波に乗ったのだ。一日中彼をハイにすることだろう.
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