それから間もなくして白い閃光が脳天を突き抜けたようにサーフィンの哲学をみた。’絶対乗る'意思をもっていれば必ず自分へのベストの波が来る。それが来る時は直感でわかる。感じるが同時、瞬時の判断でスイートスポットにパドルしてテークオフするのみ、ゴーフォーイッツ。もし，退いたのなら，その日はいくら待ってもベストの波はこない。来るのはセカンドベスト。
悔やんでも遅い。これは人生の哲学なんだよ...
Since humiliating myself who couldn't beat feeling of fear, I repeated myself "Do not pull out" every time I went to the Reef. After for a while I was awaken to the philosophy of surfing as if a white glint of light was piercing through my head. The best wave for yourself always comes, if you have a determined will .
When it comes, you feel intuitively and at the same time you know the only thing you have to do is with a quick judgement you move to the sweet spot and take off,"Go for it". If you pulled out, no more best waves are coming to you on that day. Only the second best wave. It is late if you regret. This is a philosophy of LIFE...
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